Lenin Peak, 7134 m. above the sea level, is located in the central part of the Zaalai mountain chain and is its highest point. The mountain is the most accessible of Kyrgyzstan’s three 7000 m. peaks and therefore the most popular among climbers.
Lenin Peak usually is the starting point for the Snow Leopard program. It is also the favourite mountain for alpine skiers. The ascent route does not present particular technical difficulties, while the descent from the 7134 m. summit would excite fans of most extreme sports. The weather in this area of Pamir is generally good. But please do not forget that the mountain is a seven-thousand-meter peak! High altitude, low temperatures, periods of bad weather and, of course, avalanches are main challenges for Lenin Peak climbers.
The ascent route starts at the Achik Tash base camp, a green meadow at the alpine altitude. Theb it brings you to Camp 1, at a moraine at 4200 m. above sea level. Both camps are comfortable and let you recover during the expedition.
The peak, then Kaufman Peak (named after then-governor of Turkestan by Russian geographer Alexey Fedchenko in 1871), was first climbed in 1928 by three German mountaineers, K.Win, E. Allwein and E. Schneider. In the USSR, best alpinists started their sports careers from this mountain. Now, more than 100 mountaineers from all over the world climb the mountain every year.
Activity: alpinism
Expedition duration: 21 days
Group size: from 4 persons
Price: 3000 USD
In case of the cancellation, prepayment is not refundable.
DAY 1
Arrival to Osh.
Meeting at the airport, check-in to an hotel.
DAY 2
Transfer from Osh to the Achik Tash base camp.
DAY 3
Acclimatization walk to the Petrovsky peak (4700 m).
Return to the base camp, gear check, preparation to trek to Camp 1.
DAY 4
Trek to Camp 1 (4200 m). The trek takes 6 – 8 hours, most of the load (gear, group gear, food) are transported by horses rented in the base camp for an additional payment.
Night at Camp 1. Electricity (220 V, 50 Hz), toilet and shower facilities, satellite phone connection are provided in Camp 1.
DAY 5
Acclimatization trek to the Domashny peak (4700 m).
Return to Camp 1. Preparation to trek to Camp 2.
DAY 6
Trek and gear transfer too Camp 2 (5400 m). Early start at 3 – 4 am to ensure safe passage across a dangerous part of the Lenin glacier. Group wears crampons, moves roped-in by 4 – 5 people. Transfer of food and gear for Camps 2 and 3. If needed, porters can be booked for an additional payment.
Night at Camp 2.
DAY 7
Trek to Camp 3 (6100 m). Start at 9 am, trek and transfer of gear to Camp 3. Night at Camp 3.
DAY 8
Descend to Camp 1 (4200m).
Start at 9 am, descend to Camp 2, short rest, food break, descend to Camp 1. Night at Camp 1.
DAY 9
Rest day at Camp 1 (4200 m).
DAY 10
Rest day at Camp 1 (4200 m).
DAY 11
Trek to Camp 2 (5400 m).
Early start at 3 – 4 am, trek and transfer of the remaining gear to Camp 2 (6 – 8 hours).
Night at Camp 2.
DAY 12
Rest day at Camp 2 (5400 m).
DAY 13
Trek to Camp 3 (6100 m).
Start at 9 am, trek and transfer of the remaining gear to Camp 3. Night at Camp 3.
DAY 14
Summit day. Ascent to the summit of Lenin Peak (7134 m).
Early start at 2 – 3 am. The route takes 10-12 hours. Descend t0 Camp 3 (4 – 6 hours). Night at Camp 3.
DAY 15
Reserve day.
DAY 16
Reserve day.
DAY 17
Descend to Camp 1 (4200 m).
Start at 9 am, descend to Camp 2, short rest, food break, descend to Camp 1. Night at Camp 1.
DAY 18.
Descent to Base Camp (3600 m).
Start at 11 am, trek to Base Camp (4 hours).
Night at the Base Camp.
DAY 19
Rest day. Reserve day.
DAY 20
Transfer from the Achik Tash Base Camp to Osh.
Check in to an hotel.
DAY 21
Departure from Osh.
The guide can change the itinerary (without changing its destination) depending on the weather, the condition of the team etc.
THE PRICE OF THE TOUR INCLUDES:
- Pitched high-altitude tents a 5400 m. and 6100 m. (3 persons per tent)
- Group gear: ropes, gas, stoves, cooking utensils
- High-altitude food
- Border zone permit and registration, visa support (if needed)
- Meeting at arrival and farewell at departure at the airport
- Transfers according to the itinerary
- Hotel stay in Osh (breakfast included, no more than 2 nights)
- Lunch on the way to Base Camp
- Rental of a radio
- Registration at the rescue service
- Eco fees
- Services of the guides throughout the program
THE PRICE OF THE TOUR DOES NOT INCLUDE:
- Kyrgyz visa
- International flights
- Deviations from the ascent route
- Drinks and food, not included into main menu
- Personal spending (porters, room service at hotels, medical services, insurance)
- Gear rental
COST OF PORTERS:
- Base Camp (3600m) – Camp 1 (4200m): 3 USD/kg
- Camp 1 (4200m) – camp 2 (5400m): 6 USD/kg
- Camp 2 (5400m) – Camp 3 (6100m): 8 USD/kg
- Camp 1 (4200m) – Camp 3 (6100m): 14 USD/kg
PERSONAL GEAR:
- Wind-waterproof jacket-shell (Gore-Tex or similar) for -20 C
- Warm down jacket with insulated hood
- Warm fleece or light-down insulation jacket
- Wind-waterproof (gore-tex) trousers, or bibs, for -20 C
- Synthetic/down or fleece insulation pants, recommended
- Mountaineering or tracking trousers
- Warm baselayer
- Thin baselayer
- Warm climbing socks
- Thin trekking socks
- Gaiters
- Gloves till -10 C
- Mittens till -30 C
- Warm hat
- Face mask or buff
- Sleeping bag, till -30 C comfort
- Sun-protection cream
- Thermos 0.5-1 l
- Personal toiletry kit
- Personal medicines
FOOTWEAR:
- Mountaineering boots (for altitudes 7000 m)
- High-mountain trekking boots
CLIMBING GEAR:
- Adjustable trekking poles
- Climbing harness
- Self-belay
- 3 x screw-gate carabiner
- Rappel device
- Ascenter (Jumar)
- Crampons;
- Headlamp
- Goggles
- Glacier glasses
- Ice axe