ASCENT TO LENIN PEAK

Lenin Peak, 7134 m above the sea level, is located in the central part of the Zaalai mountain chain and is its highest point. The mountain is the most accessible of Kyrgyzstan’s three 7000m peaks and therefore the most popular among climbers.

Lenin Peak usually is the starting point for the Snow Leopard program. It is also the favourite mountain for alpine skiers. The ascent route does not present particular technical difficulties, while the descent from the 7’134-m summit would excite fans of most extreme sports. The weather in this area of Pamir is generally good. But please do not forget that the mountain is a seven-thousand-meter peak! High altitude, low temperatures, periods of bad weather and, of course, avalanches are main challenges for Lenin Peak climbers.

The ascent route starts at the Achik Tash base camp, a green meadow at the alpine altitude. Theb it brings you to Camp 1, at a moraine at 4’200 m above sea level. Both camps are comfortable and let you recover during the expedition.

The peak, then Kaufman Peak (named after then-governor of Turkestan by Russian geographer Alexey Fedchenko in 1871), was first climbed in 1928 by three German mountaineers, K.Win, E. Allwein and E. Schneider. In the USSR, best alpinists started their sports careers from this mountain. Now, more than 100 mountaineers from all over the world climb the mountain every year.

Region: Kyrgyzstan, Lenin Peak (7134m)
Activity: alpinism
Expedition duration: 21 days
Group size: from 4 persons
Price: 2000 USD
Advance payment: 25 % of the full price.
In case of the cancellation, prepayment is not refundable.
INDIVIDUAL TOURS ARE POSSIBLE!
ASCENT ITINERARY

DAY 1

Arrival to Osh
Meeting at the airport, check-in to an hotel

DAY 2

Transfer from Osh to the Achik Tash base camp

DAY 3

Acclimatization walk to the Petrovsky peak (4700m)
Return to the base camp, gear check, preparation to trek to Camp 1

DAY 4

Trek to Camp 1 (4200m). The trek takes 6-8 hours, most of the load (gear, group gear, food) are transported by horses rented in the base camp for an additional payment.
Night at Camp 1. Electricity (220V, 50 Hz), toilet and shower facilities, satellite phone connection are provided in Camp 1.

DAY 5

Acclimatization trek to the Domashny peak (4700m).
Return to Camp 1. Preparation to trek to Camp 2.

DAY 6

Trek and gear transfer too Camp 2 (5400m). Early start at 3-4 am to ensure safe passage across a dangerous part of the Lenin glacier. Group wears crampons, moves roped-in by 4-5 people. Transfer of food and gear for Camps 2 and 3. If needed, porters can be booked for an additional payment.
Night at Camp 2.

DAY 7

Trek to Camp 3 (6100). Start at 9 am, trek and transfer of gear to Camp 3. Night at Camp 3.

DAY 8

Descend to Camp 1 (4200m).
Start at 9 am, descend to Camp 2, short rest, food break, descend to Camp 1. Night at Camp 1.

DAY 9

Rest day at Camp 1 (4200m)

DAY 10

Rest day at Camp 1 (4200m)

DAY 11

Trek to Camp 2 (5400 m)
Early start at 3-4 am, trek and transfer of the remaining gear to Camp 2 (6-8 hours).
Night at Camp 2.

DAY 12

Rest day at Camp 2 (5400m).

DAY 13

Trek to Camp 3 (6100m)
Start at 9 am, trek and transfer of the remaining gear to Camp 3. Night at Camp 3.

DAY 14

Summit day. Ascent to the summit of Lenin Peak (7134 m).
Early start at 2-3 am. The route takes 10-12 hours. Descend t0 Camp 3 (4-6 hours). Night at Camp 3

DAY 15

Reserve day.

DAY 16

Reserve day.

DAY 17

Descend to Camp 1 (4200m)
Start at 9 am, descend to Camp 2, short rest, food break, descend to Camp 1. Night at Camp 1.

DAY 18.

Descent to Base Camp (3600m).

Start at 11 am, trek to Base Camp (4 hours).
Night at the Base Camp.

DAY 19

Rest day. Reserve day.

DAY 20

Transfer from the Achik Tash Base Camp to Osh.
Check in to an hotel.

DAY 21

Departure from Osh.

The guide can change the itinerary (without changing its destination) depending on the weather, the condition of the team etc.

THE PRICE OF THE TOUR INCLUDES:

  • Pitched high-altitude tents a 5400m and 6100m (3 persons per tent)
  • Group gear: ropes, gas, stoves, cooking utensils
  • High-altitude food
  • Border zone permit and registration, visa support (if needed)
  • Meeting at arrival and farewell at departure at the airport
  • Transfers according to the itinerary
  • Hotel stay in Osh (breakfast included, no more than 2 nights)
  • Lunch on the way to Base Camp
  • Rental of a radio
  • Registration at the rescue service
  • Eco fees
  • Services of the guides throughout the program

THE PRICE OF THE TOUR DOES NOT INCLUDE:

  • Kyrgyz visa
  • International flights
  • Deviations from the ascent route
  • Drinks and food, not included into main menu
  • Personal spending (porters, room service at hotels, medical services, insurance)
  • Gear rental

COST OF PORTERS:

  • Base Camp (3600m) – Camp 1 (4200m): 3 UD/kg
  • Camp 1 (4200m) – camp 2 (5400m): 5 USD/kg
  • Camp 2 (5400m) – Camp 3 (6100m): 5 USD/kg
  • Camp 1 (4200m) – Camp 3 (6100m): 10 USD/kg

PERSONAL GEAR:

  • Wind-waterproof jacket-shell (Gore-Tex or similar) for -20C
  • Warm down jacket with insulated hood
  • Warm fleece or light-down insulation jacket
  • Wind-waterproof (gore-tex) trousers, or bibs, for -20C
  • Synthetic/down or fleece insulation pants, recommended
  • Mountaineering or tracking trousers
  • Warm baselayer
  • Thin baselayer
  • Warm climbing socks
  • Thin trekking socks
  • Gaiters-gloves till -10C
  • Mittens till -30C
  • Warm hat
  • Face mask or buff
  • Sleeping bag, till -30C comfort
  • Sun-protection cream
  • Thermos 0.5-1 l
  • Personal toiletry kit
  • Personal medicines

FOOTWEAR:

  • Mountaineering boots (for altitudes 7000m)
  • High-mountain trekking boots

CLIMBING GEAR:

  • Adjustable trekking poles
  • Climbing harness
  • Self-belay
  • 3 x screw-gate carabiner
  • Rappel device
  • Ascenter (Jumar)
  • Crampons;
  • Headlamp
  • Goggles
  • Glacier glasses
  • Ice axe

It is possible to rent equipment for the entire length of the expedition

DATES IN THE SEASON 2017

  • 09.07.17 – 29.07.17
  • 30.07.17 – 19.08.17